Getting to the next sections of the Great North Walk has now become more challenging; there are few places we can stay indoors, and as the trail goes inland, it’s not possible to leapfrog from train station to train station with our backpacks.  Our solution seemed fairly simple, bite the bullet and carry the fully loaded packs five kilometers and then get a ride to the Noonaweena Resort from one of the resort’s employees.  After all, how difficult could a few miles be? While Pat moved quickly and confidently up and down the steep rocky slopes, including stepping through an overblown mess of trees, I moved gingerly and groaned loudly.  When we arrived at the end of the short trek I was ecstatic. We arrived a few hours ahead of our scheduled ride but no matter; I read, Pat did a few crosswords and we walked about. At 2:45 p.m., a red Suzuki pulled up and Adam got out and introduced himself.  Adam manages the Noonaweena Resort, where we had managed to reserve their one and only space available to us, a few days earlier; their glamping tent. As Adam steered the vehicle through the two lane roads, we shared plenty of stories.  He indicated that the resort often hosts wellness-oriented retreats and during the time we were on site, they were hosting individuals coping with significant tragedies in their personal or professional lives.  Adam then drove us down the hill to our lodging, a beautifully situated canvas tent.  Inside there were three double beds with flowering spreads, solar lights, rugs strewn on the floor, and plenty of accoutrements; bathrobes, towels, slippers, and a first aid kit.  As we set our backpacks inside the tent, several cows made their way toward us.

Just like home, we thought. “I have no idea whose cows these are,” Adam said.

Farther down the hill was an open air structure made of a sandstone base with wood frame construction and a metal roof.  This was to be our kitchen, our dining area, and our place for showering. It had electrical outlets , a gas grill, hot water, a toaster, a refrigerator, a microwave , all kinds of dishes and utensils and a tea kettle. Inside the refrigerator, we found steaks, fruit, potatoes, salad, ham and eggs.  All we can say is what an amazing experience; the best kind of camping ever.  We prepared dinners both evenings, shared a bottle of wine and had small campfires while reminiscing about former journeys.

Throughout both evenings, we listened to the chatter of multiple birds and wildlife while quite cozy in our fancy tent. While glamping, we did take on a hike and it turned out to be our longest hike on this trip.  We walked to the Mangrove Creek Dam and back, passing race horse training farms and sheep farms as we attempted to see any wildlife. Though I believe I saw koala poop, I spotted no koalas up in the trees. Miraculously, we did come upon five kangaroos in a pasture and when they got wind of us, they leaped over the five foot high electric fence and went off into the bush.

On Saturday morning,  we said our farewells to Adam and a friend of his, JoAnn, volunteered to drive us to the Wyong train station. From there we caught the train to Newcastle and the light rail to Newcastle beach.  We booked a room for six nights here at Noah’s Hotel and when we arrived, they gave us a complimentary upgrade to an oceanfront room.  From the window in the shower, we can see the sun set over the cliffs and the ocean’s waves.  It is now spring here and the beaches are getting busy; several young men in their wet suits, carrying their surf boards are everywhere. We think it is a marvelous city and most definitely plan to swim.

Today, we took the light rail to the end of the Great North Walk and then walked backwards on two of the tracks.  We walked through King Edward Park, then on the Memorial Walk overlooking the sea, which was constructed in honor of all the Australians who participated in The Great War. In this country that then had five million residents, 416,000 men enlisted in the service, 60,000 died and  another 152,000 were either gassed or wounded.

The walk then took us to Bar Beach , Dixon beach and Merewether beach, all teeming with people surfing or swimming or walking. And then, we came upon one of the few people we now know in Australia;  Phoebe, who we met on the postal boat ride some days ago and several miles away.  We found that quite unique. The  rest of the trek was beautiful; we moved through rocks and sandy beaches, spotted the remains of a former railroad on the beach and crossed a lagoon back into the bush, and made our way to Charlestown, where we happened on a sports club, focused on lawn bowling.  Several teams were competing against each other; we, however, have no clue as to the rules.  And now as I write this, night has fallen and it is quiet on the shore.

Tomorrow we are going back into the bush.’

Shevonne and Pat